Morocco has established itself as a pillar of the global textile industry. Its strategic proximity to Europe, skilled workforce, and advantageous trade agreements make it a sought-after partner, especially in the demanding fast fashion segment. However, as the ecological transition becomes a necessary step to remain competitive, the national textile industry still faces significant challenges.
In an interview with Challenge, Anas Al-Ansari, a recognized expert in the sector, sounds the alarm. While he praises the structural achievements of the Kingdom, he warns of the delays in sustainability, industrial integration, and upgrading.
A model still too dependent
Even today, the majority of Moroccan units operate under a subcontracting logic, with low innovation capacity. The lack of investments in research and development or digitalization hinders the sector’s potential. Worse still, upstream links, such as spinning, weaving, or dyeing, largely depend on imports, extending production times and weakening overall competitiveness.
“It is urgent to structure a complete and local value chain,” insists Al-Ansari. The goal? Reduce dependence on foreign inputs, gain agility, and above all, meet the growing demands of international brands.
A sustainability still theoretical
Pressure is mounting on brands to align with high environmental standards, and the ordering parties are passing this requirement onto their suppliers. Traceability, carbon footprint, use of chemicals, or wastewater management: Moroccan textiles must urgently catch up. The green shift, still largely to be negotiated, is becoming a condition for survival.
In this sense, initiatives are emerging. The Moroccan Association of Textile and Clothing Industries (AMITH) is active through its Dayem program, which offers environmental diagnostics, roadmaps, and technical support. Training in sustainability, recycling, and eco-design are now at the heart of priorities, particularly in partnership with ESITH.
Structuring investments, but to be monitored
An encouraging signal came in March 2025 with the announcement of a partnership between Morocco and the Chinese group Sunrise. This investment of 2.3 billion dirhams plans to establish two industrial units in Fez and Skhirat, resulting in 7,000 direct jobs and better-integrated production.
Al-Ansari welcomes this strategic advancement while calling for vigilance: “It is essential to ensure that local companies can fully benefit from these projects while maintaining strict environmental standards and enhancing human resources’ skills.”
Leveraging opportunities… still poorly exploited
Morocco benefits from strong free trade agreements, particularly with the European Union and the United States. However, many companies do not fully capitalize on them, often due to a lack of knowledge about origin rules. “It is essential to support manufacturers with targeted training and concrete support measures,” emphasizes the expert.
At the same time, upgrading has become indispensable. The era when simple subcontracting was sufficient is over: today, it is through design, innovation, and quality that brands stand out in international markets.
Thinking beyond Casablanca and Tangier
Finally, to support more inclusive growth, regional development must be rethought. Territories like Fez-Meknes, the Oriental region, or Beni Mellal-Khénifra have industrial potential that is still under-exploited. Developing textile sectors there would not only boost employment but also relieve traditional industrial zones.
With Challenge